1/16/2024 0 Comments Uneven trex boardsNow, this is your reference point to work everything out from, provided you wish to run the deck over the cill (which I wouldn't do personally, it's not meant to be walked or stood on but it's not my house) how you achieve this point is up to you, I've told you several times to dig the slabs up and out so you can run 4x2' s or whatever toward the house, bolt a 4x2 onto the concrete slab/toe, dig out the base under the slabs and fit dwarf posts, take the slabs up, dig out underneath and rebed them level then support the posts off that, sledgehammer the whole area and pull it all out, spend a week packing under half a dozen decking boards, even set yourself on fire singing 'Burning Love' whilst doing a raindance etc. Come up from that line the thickness of your composite decking board then draw another line and square that across. Using your spirit level at the highest point or bump on the cill, level off the bump to reach the nearest post and mark a line, then square it across. Remove the 6x2 or whatever depth of timber your perimeter joists are off the two posts closest to your slab. Sigh, drink, sob, drink, sniffle, drink, repeat.ĭo you have a six foot spirit level, or at least a straight edge and smaller level? Mortar is easy to work with and forgiving but does the job (I think) Jord can give you mortar mix to use and also tell you why this method won’t workĪgreed, will be easier than faffing with individual packers be it timber or plastic etc When you’ve adjusted and set this board perfectly level over slabs and level at door frame, remove board and allow mortar to cure and clean away excessĭeck boards will then happily sit on the mortar bed, perfectly level, drill, plug and screw through into slabs Use a length of board or timber lengthways for this task (I know deck boards will be running other way) Set level with either a precious length of board (can be washed down afterwards) or 18mm timber in its place Place an over deep mortar bed onto slabs (SBR bond slabs first 1-5 diluted with water) along length of sill Cover exposed frame above sill with several layers of masking tape to stop any marks from bladeīut again (and for the last time) a mortar bed will be easy to lay, easy to work with, easy to level against uneven slabs, gives plenty of working time to adjust, can’t see how this can go wrong Simple to cut away with a multi tool if you own one ? You’ve then got 18mm of board to cover any marks to frame where you've cut through sill. It does serve a purpose in keeping rain out and away from base of frame the same as a wooden window sill, pushing water away from the wallĪs long as frame can still drain and water can’t get underneath, then it ‘could’ be a goer Hopefully Jord can discuss viability of removing the cill. So what’s the option then ? Shelve the plan and leave it or get in the pros ? So, if its the sill giving you grief, its no longer going to be seen so cut it out ,surely ? this section of sill under frame will still be attached though so hopefully not an issue. also should stop any water getting under doors and inside house. Not sure about any drainage issues by cutting sill away though ? Frame will have weep holes that allows any water that gets past doors to drain and be pushed away by the sill. So once level at door frame is set, easy to set level at next joist fixed to posts in front of steps Once cured, drill through boards and plug and screw Or a bed of mortar, no need for DPM as composite (great choice) and this will allow correct level to be set. OR, if its the unevenness of the sill that causing all the grief, cut away the cill that sticks out from doors/side panels (muti tool would be perfect for this job) Remove the complete length and be done with itĪgain, either a skinny joist screwed to slabs, packed and/or shaved where needed so it runs level, deck boards screw to this timber What I don't get though, and its been suggested several times, is either lay boards level to door frame, pack under gap between deck board and slabs as necessary and this first row of fixings will drill into slabs and through packers You will still have to step over the base of doorframe from both sides, no biggie here So, now I get it, your not expecting the impossible 'seamless' transition, that was my misunderstanding The photos are beginning to give a clearer picture of what your aiming for
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |